There are different hydraulic brake systems and they vary slightly in their bleeding procedure but the principle is broadly the same.
I am bleeding some Hope C2s on a friend's gnarly bike.
They are old but beautifully engineered and are closed system hydraulic brakes.
There are kits to make things easier but this is the old school way using a simple hose.
I am bleeding some Hope C2s on a friend's gnarly bike.
They are old but beautifully engineered and are closed system hydraulic brakes.
There are kits to make things easier but this is the old school way using a simple hose.
Step 1Tools and consumables and naming parts.
i
The bike needs to be held upright ; in a stand or held by someone or leant ; but make sure that it is stable.
The nipple on the brake caliper should be pointing upwards ( the rear one is already but the front one will need temporarily undoing by one bolt to allow it to be swiveled upwards.)
Adjust the brake lever clamp so that it is horizontal to the ground.
Put paper on the ground underneath the lever and brake to catch excess fluid.
Undo the large polygon nut ( master cylinder cap ) on the brake lever with a 26mm spanner.
The nipple on the brake caliper should be pointing upwards ( the rear one is already but the front one will need temporarily undoing by one bolt to allow it to be swiveled upwards.)
Adjust the brake lever clamp so that it is horizontal to the ground.
Put paper on the ground underneath the lever and brake to catch excess fluid.
Undo the large polygon nut ( master cylinder cap ) on the brake lever with a 26mm spanner.
Step 4Setting up for bleeding.
Put the 8mm spanner over the bleed nipple.
Attach the tubing to the nipple and attach a container or rag to catch the fluid.
Put rag around this to catch drips.
Attach the tubing to the nipple and attach a container or rag to catch the fluid.
Put rag around this to catch drips.
Step 5Bleeding.
Top up the lever with the appropriate fluid.
Undo the nipple a quarter turn and slowly pull the brake lever in and hold it; tighten the nipple up.
Release the brake lever.
Undo the nipple a quarter turn and slowly pull the brake lever in and hold it; tighten the nipple up.
Release the brake lever.
Undo the nipple a quarter turn and slowly pull the brake lever in and hold it; tighten the nipple up.
Release the brake lever.
You get the idea . . .
You will see fluid coming up the hose; it will have bubbles in it.
Repeat this process until no more bubbles come out; but make sure that the fluid in the reservoir does not drop too low; keep topping it up.
Undo the nipple a quarter turn and slowly pull the brake lever in and hold it; tighten the nipple up.
Release the brake lever.
Undo the nipple a quarter turn and slowly pull the brake lever in and hold it; tighten the nipple up.
Release the brake lever.
Undo the nipple a quarter turn and slowly pull the brake lever in and hold it; tighten the nipple up.
Release the brake lever.
You get the idea . . .
You will see fluid coming up the hose; it will have bubbles in it.
Repeat this process until no more bubbles come out; but make sure that the fluid in the reservoir does not drop too low; keep topping it up.
Step 6Replacing the Master cylinder cap.
This is a bit fiddly.
Unscrew the reservoir piston ( see 1st photo) from the master cylinder cap. (This a LEFT-HAND thread)
Top up the reservoir to the top and place rag around it.
Gently push the reservoir piston into the master cylinder so that the o-ring is just covered.
Clean up the drips.
Put the Master cylinder cap on the master cylinder and gently screw the silver adjuster anti-clockwise.
When this process has brought the whole assembly down low enough to engage the cap and the threads on the lever, then press gently down on the cap and screw the cap clock-wise by hand and then finish with a 26mm spanner.
Screw the adjuster anti-clockwise as far as it will comfortably go.
Inside the caliper you will see the pistons slightly poking out; undo the nipple once more to release fluid until they are flush with the inside of the caliper.
Unscrew the reservoir piston ( see 1st photo) from the master cylinder cap. (This a LEFT-HAND thread)
Top up the reservoir to the top and place rag around it.
Gently push the reservoir piston into the master cylinder so that the o-ring is just covered.
Clean up the drips.
Put the Master cylinder cap on the master cylinder and gently screw the silver adjuster anti-clockwise.
When this process has brought the whole assembly down low enough to engage the cap and the threads on the lever, then press gently down on the cap and screw the cap clock-wise by hand and then finish with a 26mm spanner.
Screw the adjuster anti-clockwise as far as it will comfortably go.
Inside the caliper you will see the pistons slightly poking out; undo the nipple once more to release fluid until they are flush with the inside of the caliper.
Step 7
Replace the pads and wheel and screw the silver lever adjuster clock-wise until you achieve the sharpness of braking that you require.
Check for leaks and test ride.
Dispose of the old fluid in a responsible way( as per instructions on the bottle.)
Happy riding.
Check for leaks and test ride.
Dispose of the old fluid in a responsible way( as per instructions on the bottle.)
Happy riding.